Design Your Wardrobe
March 9th, 2008
At the beginning of your career, you dressed appropriately to show respect. But at this point you want to have the respect of others, and the first step toward achieving that goal is dressing with authority. Looking the part is obviously not enough when it comes to acquiring power in the workplace you have to earn that but how you present yourself signals more than ever your position and prestige. By now, your seniority has also provided you with the resources to invest in the proper clothing befitting your status. This chapter will present the appropriate suits, shirts, ties, and accessories of the power wardrobe. Acquiring a power wardrobe is not simply about the amount of clothing you have although the more options you have although the more options you have at this stage of your career, the better. What you’re after now is quality. Finer materials and better-made clothing are what distinguish the distinguish the distinguished at this level. And when you have truly achieved a certain level of power, the power wardrobe will be incidental: Your own personal style will matter most.
“The power to define the situation is the ultimate power.”
Navy wool crepe
Unlike the navy suit you interviewed in, the wool crepe suit has a textured and slightly nubby feel to it. Wool crepe is more twisted than the worsted that most suits are made of, which means that it will wrinkle less. This makes a wool crepe suit ideal for travel. You can wear it no the plane or pack it without the fear of looking like a rumpled mess when you arrive. Like the original interview suit, a navy wool crepe suit goes with just about every shirt-and-tie combination. An overall bulletproof selection. An overall bulletproof selection.
The name of the pattern refers to the minute black-and-white woven design, which actually looks gray. A smart-looking variation on the gray worsted wool suit, the bird’s eye has a lot of texture. Keep in mind that although it looks like a solid from far away, up close it is actually a very tiny pattern, so don’t mix it with small-patterned shirt and ties.
While not as dandyish as the double-breasted version this suit is no less formal. What matters here is the pinstripe: it is the pattern of power. It’s also the most slimming design for heavier men the vertical stripes provide the illusion of height and diminish width. When choosing a shirt, beware of stripes that fight with the stripes of the suit. And for an added flourish, try a pocket square or a handkerchief.
Think of it as the navy suit for warm weather. If you live in a cold-weather city, it’s ideal for spring and summer; in warm locales it’s appropriate all year-round. When pairing shirts and ties with this suit, remember to keep them relatively light. White or light blue shirts will always work, and pale pastels are safe as well. In terms of ties, you can go a bit darker than the shirts, but in general navy or dark green would be the safest.
This classic style and pattern adds up to a suit you can take to the bank. Or a lawyer’s office. Or an important business meeting. Double-breasted meaning the left side of the jacket buttons on right side is a more dramatic suit cut than single-breasted, providing greater impact. The wide lapels often scare some men away, but as long as you don’t look as though an F-14 can land on your chest, you’re safe. In all this is a classic suit that power.
Attention to Detail
Okay, so you’ll never be a designer, but you still like your clothes a certain way shirts that are wider in the chest, collars that are spread extra wide and now you can afford to have them tailored just for you.
MADE TO ORDER
A custom-made shirt is unquestionably an extravagance, but it’s also a great way to express your sartorial individuality. Typically, from the first fitting |(Where a tailor will take more measurements than you knew you had) to the final product, it takes several weeks to the final produce a custom-made shirt.
While you can expect to pay anywhere from $75 to several hundred dollars for one, the fit will be perfect. Also, the patterns and materials (frequently sea Island of Egyptian cotton) will be superior to ready-made shirts.
For a more sophisticated variation one the button down collar, try hidden snaps.
A custom-made shirt has expert stitching around the collar and placket. Look for 14 or more stitches per inch.
Blazers---a wardrobe of Basics
Like white shirts, khakis, and jeans, can a man really own enough blue blazers? Probably. But the point is, a blazer is so versatile and will get so much use that, after a while, having more than one becomes necessary. How you choose additional jackets depends on your needs: Would you like a line blazer for summer and one in cashmere for winter? How about a double-breasted jacket instead of a single?
Made popular by JFK, the two-button single-breasted jacket has remained an American favorite. It flatters most, since its elongated frontal V shows more shirt, thus lengthening the line of a body.
Traditionally, the double-breasted blazer is navy blue, with six metal buttons, only two of which actually function. Further characteristics are side vents, two flap pockets, a breast pocket, and peaked lapels. For business, metal buttons may be considered too casual. They can be replaced with horn.
A three-button jacket is considered fashionable. Most designers make them so only the top two buttons close, although some men prefer the more classic three, in which the lapel rolls to the second button and the top one remains unbuttoned and hidden behind the lapel.
Shirt &Tie Combinations
As you spend more money on shirts and ties, mix ability becomes essential. Why have a $100 tie if it only goes with one shirt and suit? So, when expanding this area of the wardrobe, thing about all the potential combinations with your existing clothes. Solid ties are particularly versatile, as they go with even the wildest patterned shirt . In general, though, you want the tie to relate to a color in the shirt or jacket.
1. Plaid shirt with spread collar and stripe knit tie.
2. Gingham shirt with solid navy tie.
3. Multistoried shirt with tonal tie.
4. Lavender oxford with small pattern.
From – Dress Smart for Men