Evolution And Revolution In Mens Clothing
November 17th, 2005
Once upon a time, men adhered to strict fashion rules, never daring to buck the sartorial system. But today´s top designers say the modern man is now willing to take risks to create a more personal look.
So what are the new ground rules for masculine elegance in 2006?
Ahead of Paris men´s fashion week, which begins Friday, AFP asked a diverse cross-section of
Designers, form Japan´s Naoki Takizawa at Issey Miyake to Veronique Nichanian at Hermes, to describe the recent men swear revolution.
“Today´s man is more comfortable with himself and lets his real personality shine through,” said Nichanian. “Before, he followed trends, but basically never deviated from a set dress code. Today, he mixes it up a bit.
Takizawa, who will present his spring-summer 2006 collection for Issey Miyake on Friday, added: “There is no longer one standard definition of elegance with a few variations, but a multitude of dress codes and attitudes”.
At the fashion house of reclusive Belgian Martin Margie, who never makes public appearances or comments, a company spokesperson said: “Many designers finally got what they had been asking for, after such a long time!”
“There are on more universal fashion diktats, but rather personal fashion diktats, but rather personal tastes, creative expressions and in dividual styles. Men can wear what they want, without thinking about fashion per se.”
For Franck Boclet, the designer at Francesco Smalto, actors Nicolas Cage and Vincent Cassel are typical of the new modern male “who takes care of himself and likes to dress up.”
“Men are more and more chameleon – they can dress in a different way every day, according to their moods,” Boclet noted.
Jose Levy, designer for Emanuel Unger, hailed English football star David Beckham – famous for his moves on both the soccer filed and the red carpet – for “reassuring men who would have never otherwise dared” to strike a pose.
The Frenchman calls it the “new pleasure in dressing,” explaining: “Before, at 20, men went to work at a bank in something that looked like Dad´s suit. Today, there are actually suits for young people!”
Levy´s countryman Pierre Henri Matt out, who will unveil both his personal line and a collection for Dormeuil in Paris, said: “Men´s behavior has changed a lot in the last decade. They care a lot more about their appearance.”
Matt out predicted that men would follow a course taken by women 20 years ago, embracing “beauty products, fashion, shopping and the fact that they belong to a world of labels.”
Nichanian said the evolution of societal morns, family, and the workplace made the men swear revolution possible
by DOMINIQUE AGEORGES at AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE