2) How do I know if MySuitShop is for me?
3) What is difference between "Slim or Snug Fit", "Athletic Cut" and "Full Fit"?
4) How do I best take sizes? With clothes on or without any clothes on?
5) What is button stance?
6) I want corporate logo, personal logo on the garments I Order.
7) What are the materials and Items used in suit making?
8) What is Super 100s, 110s, 120s, 130s, 150s, and 180s?
9) What is SEERSUCKER?
10) What kind of cloth is linen and of what kind of material is linen composed of?
An athletic fit is wider at the shoulders and has more of an hourglass shape, narrowing at the waist for a steeper drop and then following the curvature of the hips more like an Italian Cut. This is perfect for the well built body and the accent to the shoulders is well suited to those with wider shoulders and narrower tighter torsos.
A full cut drapes and flows over the body and minimizes the curves of the body. This is ideal for larger more substantial or Big and Tall physiques. [Top]
Two dimensional measurements such as lengths, shoulder widths etc can be taken off another piece of clothing that fits well but three dimensional measurements such as chest circumference, stomach etc should be taken off the body.
Please use the video tutorials on the forms to see how best the measurements should be taken.
When taking Measurements, we would recommend a thin shirt or t-shirt and a well fitting pair of pants be worn.
Please do not take measurements wearing a jacket or jeans or shorts and other such casual clothing.
Tights, jogging suits, corsets or any other body binding garments should not be worn when taking the sizes.
For Pants and Trousers measurements, ideally the pants you wear when taking the measurements should sit exactly where you would like your custom pants to sit if these are being ordered. Bear in mind the position of the pants waist band on the waist at the sides, front and back as required when taking the measurements for the pants outseam and U-crotch.
Jacket lengths do not necessarily have to conform to the second knuckle on the thumb since some have long arms and others short arms as well as styles selected also make a difference. Ideally the standard jacket length should cover at least the buttocks at the back and the crotch in the front.
Do not take the neck size of shirts tightly or snugly. Make sure a finger is kept between the tape and the body for comfort allowance for the collar.
We do not prefer using off the rack measurements for custom clothing..for obvious reasons!
When submitting shirt sleeve lengths, do not submit half shoulder and sleeve length as sleeve length is generally understood specially in the USA. Please measure sleeve length from the top of the shoulder to the length desired as is described in the measurements forms.
For your convenience, each measurement requirement for each kind of garment is indicated using icons so that those minimal sizes get submitted as necessary, with your order. [Top]
For us to be able to offer a competitive price for the work, please be kind enough to email us the style of shirt or jacket that you wish to order, the number of pieces you would like to order and a digital image of the logo you wish to have placed on the garments.
The image can be sent to us as a Jpeg file format which ends in the extension .jpg and is of no larger than 100 kb and should multiple images be sent, please zip them before transmission to make for easier uploads and downloads.
Please let us know the colours, back ground colours if any and the location and size of the logo as well.
Once confirmed, we would forward to you a price quote and request any additional details as necessary. [Top]
Body CanvassThere are basically 2 types of canvass used, each type has a like medium & hard grade. Depending on the original consultation & the cloth, this would depend on what canvass would be used & what grade. The basic 2 grades used are woolen canvass & lining canvass
There are several different types of hair cloth used of numerous grades. We personally use about 10 different grades depending on the construction of the coat & the weight of the cloth, shall we say for simplicity number 1 grade is very lightweight number 2 is slightly heavier & number 10 is obviously the heaviest. Again, taking the cloth & the customers original consultation into account we would choose the most appropriate hair cloth.
This is a fine cloth used to cover the hair cloth over the canvass stopping the hair cloth coming through the canvass & cloth. Some of the older tailors still do not use Domette but prefer using felt (please advise these tailors that cloth has changed in the last decade. Customer donâ€™t just want to look good but also feel good in what they are wearing).
There are dozens of types of body lining to choose from, again depending on the original consultation you may choose to have a pure silk lining or one of those below -
There are several types of linen, again this would depend on the cloth. The linen is commonly used on the backing of the pockets for strength & in the cuffs where the button holes & the buttons are sewn. It can also be used at the bottom of the jacket, on the back neck & on the back syes.
There are several different types & grades & also colours. We prefer to generally use a medium weight pocketing with matching colour to the garment. More information on request as I have a personal fettish on pocketing.
This can be found under your collar, it is the felt like cloth which is one of 2 pieces to complete the under collar (Collar Canvass being the second part). This should always be cut on the bias & generally be of similar colour to the cloth. This is not to say you could not use a red colour melton on a blue or black jacket & create a feature of it.
There are basically 3 types of collar canvass, type 1 is a linen canvass cut on the bias generally used by Anderson & Sheppard (Savile Row). This creates a very soft collar, unfortunately it can also look a little messy in my opinion if done wrong. Type 2 is a medium grade canvass which is much stiffer & type 3 is a slightly harder canvass from type 2.When trying a garment on for the first time, generally it will look brownish in colour on your fitting, this is the collar canvass.
Stay Tape (Linen)
Stay tape is used on the front edges of the coat, generally it would be made from linen. It is to help the front edges not to stretch or twist & should always be sewn on by hand. You will probably never see this as the facings would be sewn on for your next fitting.
Sleeve Head Wadding
This is a pre-made wadding specifically used to go around the sleeve head when finished. It is sleeve head wadding that gives the roundness to a sleeve around your shoulders. In 22 years of tailoring, only 1 company does not use this method â€“ Anderson & Sheppard who uses a small piece of domette cut on the bias with a small strip of wadding inside & folded thus giving the soft round shoulders & sleeve head which have made Anderson & Sheppard famous.
As a company we have a choice of over 5000 shoulder pads, we have chosen to use 3 pads that are made exclusively for us & re modeled by each of our tailor to our individual requirements. Again, Anderson & Sheppard do not use (well they didnâ€™t use, not saying they donâ€™t now useâ€¦.. but not saying they donâ€™t use shoulder pads) to simply say they use wadding covered by a piece of lining which they call a â€˜shoulder padâ€™ giving that soft shoulder look.
Button twist is used to make button holes, there a thousands of colours, but generally most tailors will only use 1 or 2 makes for the simple reason of quality of twist.
This is used when making button holes. The gimp is placed along the button hole & the button twist is sewn around the gimp giving the button hole a slightly stiffer finish. There are several different grades of gimp.
Sewing silk is used on hand sewing, your linings will be sewn with sewing silk, the under collar where the melton attaches itself to the cloth is also sewn with sewing silk, but can also be used to sew shoulders & sleeves by hand. [Top]
Since we do not stock seersucker in our inventory, please email us if this cloth is a requirement and we would be happy to source it from our suppliers. Generally, colours such as light blue on white, navy on white, black on white and grey and white are fairly easily available. [Top]
Linen is from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fiber. Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments.
However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily [Top]
Member Since 1990