Shopping And The Body Type For Suits, Jacket, Trousers And Accessories

October 6th, 2001


TALL MEN - The taller the tree, the broader its branches, so the tall man needs fuller cut clothes for balance and style. The selections should de-emphasize length by breaking up the vertical lines.

Jackets
1. Sloping shoulders of generous width.
2. Coat should be cut on the longer side.
3. Double-breasted model that buttons on waist, not below it, such as the 6/2 placement.
4. Two-button single-breasted.
5. Broader lapels, finishing in lower area of upper chest.
6. Flap pockets and the additional ticket pocket help fragment verticality.
7. The fabrics can be heavier in look, such as flannels and cheviots, and of larger scale in pattern, such as broad stripes, hound’s-tooth checks, glen plaids, or squared-off windows panes.

Trousers
1. Long rise, full cut with deep pleats.
2. Leg with grntle taper.
3. Cuffs (1 ¾”) with definite break on shoe.

Accessories
1. Full-cut shirts must show ½” of shirt cuff.
2. White contrast collars and cuffs break up length.
3. Amply proportioned spread collars.

4. Broadly spaced, fine-lined stripes, tatters all check, windowpanes, and horizontal stripes.
5. Belts break up length.
6. Welt-soled shoes for more substantial foundation.

ATHLETIC BUILD - For the man of average height whose chest size is at least eight inches more than his waist size, the principle is to reproportion the oversized shoulder with the smaller bottom.

Jackets
1. Shoulders should be as unpadded and natural-looking as possible.
2. Jackets need length to balance the strong shoulder without shortening the leg line.
3. Minimal waist suppression.
4. Two-button single-breasted over double-breasted-avoid three-button single-breasted.
5. Lapels should be full with slight belly.
6. Flap on pockets.
7. Side vents or no vents.
8. Fabrics should de-emphasize bulk: solid worsteds, herringbones, vertical windowpanes, subtle stripe with no less than ¾” spacing.

Trousers
1. To fill out the jacket, Trouser must be worn as high on waist as comfortable.
2. Full cut through hip and thigh with taper to 1 ¾” cuff.
3. Trouser leg should have definite break on shoe.

Accessories (Assuming a broad face and thick neck)
1. Vertical shirt collar such as tab or long points.
2. Solid, striped, or patterned neckwear.
3. Shirt with strong stripes.
4. Shoes with larger scale to balance shoulders.

from Style and The Man by Alan Flusser
  

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