Topic 3: Fabrics and their Features

3a ) What is TWO-FOLD or Two ply Cloth? High end fabrics used in the production of the seasonal shirts are produced from fine natural fibres in two-fold super fine cotton like 100s,120s and 140s. Two-fold cotton has 2 yarns that have been twisted together tightly to form one yarn, advantages over a single yarn fabric (singles) are that it is a more durable fabric, weaker spots are reinforced and yarns are stronger and do not fray easily. Normally these types of fabrics are mentioned as 2/60s, 2/80s, 2/100s, 2/120s. Here 2 stands for two ply or two fold. (Back)

3b ) What is Dormieul? Dormieul is a manufaturer of very high end pure wool cloth for mens suits and slacks. They are located in England and have trading offices in most European countries as well as centers of tailoring in Asia. Cloth from Dormieul is reknowned worldwide for its unique hand and luxurious feel. Dormieul suit fabrics are typically made in the tradition of British tastes with most fabrics being in traditional business colours and patterns such as Chalk Stripes, Bankers Stripes, Pin Stripes, Prince of Wales check etc.
Dormieul is famous for its ´smooth as silk´ finish of wool suitings and have a lustre to it that exudes High Class Taste and Refinement. A person who wears Dormieul stands out as someone who knows what to wear and how to wear it. You can learn more about fabrics by visiting our Glossary pages or you can do quick Cloth searches using one or more criteria to help pick specific cloth you might be interested in, based on the weight, patterns, content and other requirments. (Back)

3c ) What is Super 100s, 110s, 120s, 130s, 150s, and 180s? It represents the fineness of the yarn in the fabric. The higher the number the higher the fineness. The yarn number for cotton yarns is based on the number of 840-yard hanks in a pound. The convention for indicating plies resembles that for wool. Two-ply 20s would be written 2/20s or 20/2, and would be twice the weight, length for length, of single ply 20s yarn. (Back)

3d ) what is the designer brand Collections? The fabrics in our Designer Brand collections are sourced from Top Mills and Cloth Manufacturers worldwide. Cloth from mills such as Dormieul, Scabal, Zegna etc are included in this collection.
The fabrics are some of the best in the world and have a super luxurious finish and hand.
You can learn more about fabrics by visiting our Glossary pages or you can do quick searches using one or more criteria to help pick specific cloth you might be interested in, based on the weight, patterns, content and other requirments, using our Cloth Search function. (Back)

3e ) What is SEERSUCKER? A fabric usually a narrow striped cotton with alternate stripes crinkled in the weaving that has a Crepe-stripe effect. Colored stripes are often used alternating with white. The fabric has a matte surface. Seersucker comes in light, and medium to heavy weights. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. This effect is permanent. Some seersucker cloths may be produced by pressing/ironing or a chemical treatment, which is unlikely to be permanent. Seersucker is also called plisse. It is Durable, gives good service and wear and especially excellent for very hot summers. It can be laundered without having to iron. Essentially it is wrinkle resistant by nature. It can also be bleached, yarn dyed, or printed. Some seersuckers come in a check or plaid effect as well. Seersucker has many uses: Summer suits for men, women, and children, coats, uniforms, trims, nightwear, all kinds of sportswear, dresses, blouses, children´s wear of all kinds, curtains, bedspreads, slipcovers etc.
Since we do not stock seersucker in our inventory, please email us if this cloth is a requirement and we would be happy to source it from our suppliers. Generally, colours such as light blue on white, navy on white, black on white and grey and white are fairly easily available. (Back)

3f ) What is ply? Ply refers to the number of individual yarns used as a strand. Single ply fabric is woven from one, individual yarn; 2-ply fabric is made from yarns that are twisted together and then woven. If 2-ply yarn is used, the finished construction will have twice the thread count of the same construction made from single ply yarn. 2-ply yarn must be made from a very high yarn size (like 100) or they will feel thick and heavy. (Back)

3g ) What is yarn size? Yarn size refers to the thickness of the yarns that are used to make the fabric. A higher yarn size means a finer yarn. Generally sheets are made from a yarn size range of 40 to 100. Obviously, the finer the yarn, the more of them will fit in a square inch. (Back)

3h ) What is thread count? Thread count is the number of horizontal and vertical threads in one square inch of fabric. Thread count in sheets can range from 80 to 700, although most stores sell sheets that range from 180 to 320. In general, the higher the thread count, the softer the fabric feels, but that doesn´t necessarily mean the sheets will last longer (and sheets with a higher thread count are usually more expensive). One linens department manager says thread counts above 380 are "kind of a farce." Manufacturers twist two threads in a way that lets them double the sheet´s thread count.
Recently, many linens manufacturers have touted thread count as the best way to choose a sheet. But others point out that the quality of the fibers and finish are more important to the sheet´s comfort and durability. In fact, sheets made of linen, flannel, or jerseys (those trendy “T-shirt” sheets) have low thread counts due to the type of fabric. A high thread count would eliminate part of the appeal of these sheets. According to Consumer Reports, cotton and cotton-blend sheets with a thread count of 180 to 200 stand up to wear and tear and provide satisfactory comfort. (Back)

3i ) What is a Burn Test? How do I test a fabric? Burn Test - CAUTION. WARNING. BE CAREFUL! This should only be done by skilled burners! Make sure there is a bucket of water nearby and that you burn in a metal bucket or non-plastic sink.
To identify fabric that is unknown, a simple burn test can be done to determine if the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. The burn test is used by many fabric stores and designers and takes practice to determine the exact fiber content. However, an inexperienced person can still determine the difference between many fibers to "narrow" the choices down to natural or man made fibers. This elimination process will give information necessary to decide the care of the fabric.
WARNING: All fibers will burn! Asbestos treated fibers are, for the most part fire proof. The burning test should be done with caution. Use a small piece of fabric only. Hold the fabric with tweezers, not your fingers. Burn over a metal dish with soda in the bottom or even water in the bottom of the dish. Some fabrics will ignite and melt. The result is burning drips which can adhere to fabric or skin and cause a serious burn.
Cotton is a plant fiber. When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle.
Linen is also a plant fiber but different from cotton in that the individual plant fibers which make up the yarn are long where cotton fibers are short.
Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.
Silk is a protein fiber and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen.
Wool is also a protein fiber but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibers are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair.
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3j ) What is manufactured – Man Made Fabrics and kinds of manufactured fiber? Manufactured Fabrics are usually made of filaments extruded as liquid and formed into various fibers. Because the fiber starts as a liquid, many of the fibers are colored before they become filament, thus they are difficult to dye after the fiber is woven into a fabric.

3k ) What is hemp fiber and jute? HEMP is currently being used by designers in clothing. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. No, hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical that, when smoked produces the "high" that smoking marijuana produces. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibers which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric.
The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers.

3l ) What are weaves and how are they different from fabrics? Types of weaves have often been mistaken for types of fabrics. For example, satin is a type of weave, and does not denote fabric content. Satin is woven from silk, polyester, acetate, or even blends of fibers. Each different fiber content contributes to the hand and drape of the satin fabric also a weave that is seen in brocade, damask, and tapestry. I once called a fabric store to find jacquard woven fabric only to be told that they didn´t carry natural fabrics. The correct answer would have been to ask what type of jacquard I was looking for. (Back)

3m ) What is cotton? What are its uses? COTTON - cool, soft, comfortable is the principal clothing fiber of the world.
Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability.
Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from cotton and also added a "pilling" effect to cotton/polyester blends.
Consumers now often request "100% Cotton". Permanent finishes also added to the all cotton fabric gave a wash and wear property to cotton. cotton. The cotton fiber is from the cotton plant´s seed pod The fiber is hollow in the center and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe".
Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color in dyed cottons.
Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.
Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibers which then becomes a smooth, rod-like fiber that is uniform in appearance with a high luster. Cotton is often blended with other fibers such as polyester, linen, wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fiber. (Back)

3n ) What is wool? What are the different kinds of wool and their advantages? WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool´s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration´s which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration´s will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.
Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool´s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS - although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.

3o ) What kind of cloth is linen and of what kind of material is linen composed of? LINEN, elegant, beautiful, durable, the refined luxury fabric. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation. Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.
Linen is from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fiber. Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments.
However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily (Back)

3p ) What is Glen Plaid? Glen plaid (or glenurquhart) is the genus and Prince of Wales plaid is a species. Glen-plaid thus refers only to the plaid pattern, whatever its color or scale. The particular rust-red, large-scale plaid described above is an old Scottish "district check" that was popularized by David, prince of Wales, in the 1920s. Thus it came to be known as the "Prince of Wales plaid." In later years, the terms came to be conflated, so that people would refer to any glen-plaid as a PoW plaid. But, technically, the true PoW plaid is the particular district check first popularized by the prince who became Edward VIII and then the duke of Windsor. Keywords: glenplaid, glen, plaid, glen plaid, check, squares, checks, checkered, checquered, plaids, Prince of Wales plaid, district check, prince of wales, jackets, sports, sports jackets, blazer, blazers, suit, suits, mens, plaid suit, check suit, prince of wales suit, plaid jacket, check jacket, prince of wales jacket, coat, coats, hunting jacket, plaid hunting jacket, check hunting jacket (Back)

3q ) What is vicuna wool? One of the best, most luxurious wool for suits is the vicuna wool taken from the vicuna of the Andes mountains in South America.
The vicuña is a member of the camel family. It is the smallest of the six species of camel, and is thought to be the wild ancestor of the alpaca. It lives on the high, grassland plateaus of the Andes mountains which range from southern Peru to northern Chile and into parts of Bolivia and Argentina. Only tough bunch grasses and festuca grows here. The sun´s ultraviolet rays burn through the thin atmosphere during the day. At night the heat of the day escapes into the atmosphere and the temperatures go down to freezing.
Although they look fragile, the vicuña is specially adapted to its high-altitude habitat. It has an incredibly thick, soft coat that traps layers of warm air close to its body and protects it from freezing temperatures. The lower teeth of the vicuña grow constantly, like a rodent´s, so they can eat the tough grasses. The vicuña also walks on the soles of its feet so it can flex its toes and grab on to the rocks and gravel-covered slopes. Vicuña milk is very rich so the babies grow quickly.
Vicuñas weigh between 75-140 pounds. They are about 4-6 feet long and stand 2-3 1/2 feet at the shoulders. They have very long necks, round heads, and large, forward facing eyes. Their ears are long and pointed and stand up on their heads. Their fur is a rust color, with white around the muzzle,the chest, belly, and the insides of the legs. The white hair on their chests is longer than their other hair.
Vicuñas graze mostly on grasses. Their teeth are large and grow constantly like those of a rodent. They chew their cud when resting getting more nutrients out of the nutrient poor grass.
Vicuñas are very shy animals and run away very quickly. They have two territories that they defend from other herds; a feeding territory or about 45 acres, and a smaller sleeping area on higher ground where they are more protected. The vicuña live in herds of 5-10 members, which includes one dominant male and several females and their young. They mate in March and April and their young are born 11 months later. The young stay with their mother and the herd for another 10 months, when they are driven off by the herd. Young males will form bachelor groups and the young females try to find another group to join. This ensures that the herd stays the same size, which is important with their limited food supply.
The vicuña was almost hunted to extinction for its beautiful soft wool. The Incas used to round up the wild vicuñas and pen them in stone corrals, where they were sheared for their wool. In modern times they were almost wiped out for their meat and wool. By 1960 there were only 6,000 vicuñas left in the wild. Chile and Peru established protected national parks and put a halt to trade in vicuña wool. Now there are about 125,000 vicuñas, but they are still listed as threatened. The vicuña is classified as vulnerable by the IUCN, and as endangered by the USDI. (Back)

3r ) What are natural fibers made from? What is a Natural Fiber? NATURAL FABERS are created from fibers of animals coats, silkworm cocoons, and plants´ seeds, leaves, and stems. Click on the natural fiber below for information on each fiber and their weaves.

Topic 4: Fabrics and Styles

4a ) I want to order a poplin, cotton, wool, silk suit/shirt? We are glad to confirm that it is possible to have a suit/shirt or even a coat, custom made in Poplin/Cotton/wool/silk or any other fabric. The fabric search function on the left menu can be used to type in the word “silk” or “poplin” without the quote marks to do a quick search for all the materials with unusual colours for your custom garment. If the specific fabric or colour you are looking for, is not found at our site, please email us with the colour requirement so that we can source it for your particular order from our suppliers. (Back)

4b ) I would like to order custom denim Jackets/coats/slacks/jeans etc. May we confirm that we can work with denim for custom clothing and can make to measure jeans, slacks, jackets, coats and suits.
Please use our Fabric Search function and type in the words - Denim - in the keywords field of the search criteria to bring up our denim fabrics and the garments they can be made into.
Should you wish to order a garment type that is not displayed as a category for denim, please email us the kind of garment you would like made, the style number or a link to an online image, the fabric number and the colour number for the garment. This is so that we can provide you with a custom price quote for the order. (Back)

4c ) I am looking for a particular colour. Do you have the colour I am looking for? Our inventory carries hundreds of colours and hues in a huge range of fabrics. To quickly check out the colour you are looking for or to review a desired fabric type, please visit our ´search for a fabric/colour´ link where you can do quick searches using criteria such as colours, weights, climatic conditions, patterns etc. We can almost guarantee that a fabric or colour of your choice will be available in our inventory for your custom order. (Back)

4d ) What is Linen? Why Linen? A pure linen suit is a garment in itself. While it does wrinkle, it gives the image of a leisure suit that no other fabric can provide. Think casual, leisure, elegant, sporty, again sporty or sport, landed gentry, sunny, sun tanned, young, summer, tropical and mix it all up into a cocktail and that is the effect a pure linen suit gives.
We recommend pure linen for summer suits if one does not mind the wrinkles that a linen suit creates.
On the other hand, linen was originally made as a fabric for suits for those who could afford one wear and then a dry clean and stem press. Hence the wrinkles were never an issue. In fact, it is the wrinkles themselves that are the main characteristic of linen in that despite the wrinkles the linen falls so well as to given an excellent silhouette. (Back)

4e ) What is Fabric Popularity and how is it judged? Fabric Popularity and our assessment of fabric popularity, depends on many factors such as price, personal tastes, colour availabilities and other such issues.
Fabric popularity does not in any way imply that any fabric with low popularity is an inferior material.
All our fabrics are high grade fabrics that have gone through extensive and extremely intensive quality testing prior to being offered at our website online.
Please note that the more a fabric is selected by a client for one of our garments, the higher its popularity is assessed to be.
Please use our Fabric Search pages to access our most popular fabrics and materials, quickly and easily.
You can also access fabrics using composition, climate, weight and pattern criteria as well as look up all the new recently added materials all in one go! (Back)

4f ) I have a particular fabric in mind, how do I search for it on this site? We are glad to confirm that you can do quick searches of our database for the most ideal fabrics for your sartorial needs by using the Fabric Search function to access the perfect materials.
Criteria such as fabric weights, fiber compositions, patterns and designs, climate of use and many other similar single or combination of criteria can be used to pinpoint the fabric most ideal for your requirements.
Single or Multiple search criteria can be used for accurate results. The listed fabrics will show how popular each fabric has been, the collection that the fabric is from and the pricing of custom made garments in that fabric.
Please use our Fabric Search feature to quickly and easily pinpoint the best fabrics for your custom clothing needs. (Back)

4g ) What are the most popular fabrics? What are votes on fabrics? Each time a custom garment is ordered in any particular fabric, the fabric gets a vote point. The higher the vote point, the more popular that fabric has been with our clients. Do bear in mind that all colours in any one particular fabric is considered as a vote to that one fabric and not to the particular colour selected. The fabric in all its colours is considered as one.
When using the Fabric Search function, upon selecting to show most popular fabrics on top, the materials with the highest votes will show up chronologically.
Please use our Fabric Search feature to quickly and easily pinpoint the best fabrics for your custom clothing needs. (Back)

4h ) I am looking for wrinkle resistant fabrics, durable, everyday wear Our poly blends, polyester mixes and synthetic blends, specially in the Classic collections are perfect for high quality, wrinkle resistant, durable every day wear.
You can also use the Fabric Search function to quickly and easily pick out the perfect materials for your requirements. Select single or multiple criteria when doing your searches for perfect results. (Back)

4i ) Do you have higher end fabrics available apart from those displayed? May we confirm that we do have higher end fabrics available and displayed at our our sister site at www.mycustomtailor.com
Please feel free to visit us at www.mycustomtailor.com for more variety and choice of materials. (Back)

4j ) Where can I find the Exclusive, Deluxe and Heritage Gold collections? The Fabrics in our Exclusive Collections, Deluxe Collections and the Heritage Gold Collections can be found at our sister site at www.mycustomtailor.com
The fabrics in these collections are higher end materials ideal for the truly discerning dresser who is willing to invest in top end, high quality custom clothing for personal sartorial pleasure.
Please visit us at www.mycustomtailor.com for top of the range quality fabrics for suits, shirts and other custom clothing. (Back)

4k ) What is the difference between the CLASSIC COLLECTIONS, PREMIER COLLECTION and the SUPERIOR COLLECTION ? The fabrics in our classic collections are all made in Thailand and have a higher synthetic content to make them more wrinkle resistant and easy to maintain.
These fabrics are excellent for traveling and as very cost effective suits.
The Premier fabrics are all imported with minimal synthetic blends and are generally lighter in weight.
They have a softer drape and fall. These fabrics are richer in look and feel.
The Superior fabrics are all imported from Europe and are all pure wools, cashmeres etc unless otherwise specified.
These materials do not contain any synthetic fibers.
Should budgetary constraints not be an issue, we would recommend the more value added Premier or Superior fabrics for all your suiting needs and the Classic collections for your shirts as the best option.
It is not unusual though for first time clients to order from our classic collections to confirm the fit and cut of our products before investing in higher end selections.
Our other fabrics range that is top end is the DELUXE AND THE HERITAGE GOLD COLLECTIONS. The fabrics in the HERITAGE GOLD COLLECTIONS are sourced from Top End suppliers such as Dormieul, Holland and Sherry, Reda, Barberis and others in Europe.
The associated costs of having the fabric delivered to us for custom making to specifications provided as well as the fabrics being produced by high end millers, makes this line of fabric more expensive than the DELUXE.
The DELUXE COLLECTIONS itself is a very high end fabric range comparable to the best there is, but since it is available here in Thailand easily, and also stocked in our inventory, economies of scale allow custom clothing in these materials to be produced more cost effectively.
For the sake of comparison, an equivalent suit to our single breasted two piece from the classic collections is available in the USA for around USD 600 off the rack! An equivalent of our single breasted two piece suit from the exclusive collections is retailing in the USA for around USD 750+ and a suit equivalent to our deluxe collection single breasted suit retails for USD 950 in the USA.
Fabrics from our HERITAGE GOLD collections are rarely available as off the rack ready to wear suits and are generally found at very high end custom tailors such as those on Saville Row, England.
The suits in our HERITAGE GOLD collection if found off the rack ready to wear from a designer label generally retails for USD 1500 + and if made to measure by a custom tailor in the UK, would generally go for USD 2500+ or GBP 1800+
The Fabrics in our Deluxe Collections and the Heritage Gold Collections can be found at our sister site at www.mycustomtailor.com
The fabrics in these collections are higher end materials ideal for the truly discerning dresser who is willing to invest in top end, high quality custom clothing for personal sartorial pleasure.
Please visit us at www.mycustomtailor.com for top of the range quality fabrics for suits, shirts and other custom clothing. (Back)

4l ) Which Mills do you obtain your fabrics from? Where do most of your fabrics come from? Most of our fabrics are sourced from suppliers here in Thailand, in France and a lot of the top range materials from Italy and Uk.
www.tessilgrosso.com , www.hollandandsherry.com , www.carlobarbera.it , www.vitalebarberiscanonico.it , www.reda.it , www.zignone.it and www.scabal.com are websites of some of our fabric suppliers.
Only the best of the materials are ordered from these and other top end millers for our very discerning clientele. (Back)

4m ) What is PVC ? What is Pleather ? Pleather is PVC leather also known as poly vinyl chloride.
This is and imitation leather and a synthetic material.
This is not pure leather.
We however, can custom make on special request, sheepskin, calfskin and lambskin items should you decide to forward us the styles and item details. Please Contact us in this regard for further details.
It would help if complete information in regards to the type of leather, style and colour were required for your custom garment so that a competitive price can be offered. (Back)

4n ) I am looking for Fabric Care Information General Fabric care instructions are sent out with the order itself though generally all wool items must be dry cleaned only, cotton and cotton blends can be machine washed in cold water though we recommend hand washing for durability and pure silk or silk blends should be hand washed or dry cleaned only.
No item should have a hot iron applied directly but should always have a white linen cloth between the iron and the custom garment or better still, should be ironed from the reverse side or steam pressed. Only use very hot irons for pressing pure cotton cloth.
We also recommend natural drying over machine drying and hand wash over machine wash for all our cotton and cotton blend products.
Dry clean only and steam press for our wool or silk products. This is valid for all fabric classes and types per the indications provided.
A FEW QUICK TIPS ON STAIN REMOVAL...
If you have stains on your suits, other than having them cleaned by professional dry cleaners, here are a few ´quick fixes´ you can try:
Lipstick - Use hot water to rub off the oil base, then use soap to wash off
Alcohol - Breathe tobacco smoke on it to prevent rings from forming, then wash off with hot water or rubbing alcohol
Blood - Rub off with hydrogen peroxide
Ball Pen - Use petrol to rub off stain, then wash off with soap
Chewing Gum - Do not attempt to peel it off as it will stick deeper into fabric fibre. Put ice on it to solidify the gum. then peel it off when it gets hard.
Drinks - Use diluted vinegar to wash it off
Soy Sauce - Rub off with ginger juice
Shoe Polish - Rub off with petrol
Coffee - Rub off with hot water, then wash off with soap
Mercurochrome - Wash off with diluted vinegar
Rust - Rub off with lemon
Perfume Stain - Rub off gently with rubbing alcohol
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4o ) I want to know more about the Various Silks available. The squirrel tail silk is a matte finish light weight, flowing drape, easy care, wrinkle resistant, washable silk synthetic blend. This is light enough for a very light summer suit or a heavy evening shirt. The Thai silk blend is a gloss finish, shiny, easy care, light weight, wrinkle resistant, washable silk terelene blend fabric and excellent for evening dress wear. This is a shirt fabric. The pure Thai silk is a stiffer, gloss finish, completely hand woven, pure silk fabric with a glossy dressy finish and excellent for an elegant evening shirt that is to be worn without a jacket. This is dry clean only. It can be made into a suit for evening wear as well�though quite a rich look The Chinese silks, silks in velvet finish, sand washed silks are extremely light weight, flowing drape, two tone matte finish materials that should be hand washed only. These are for shirts and for suits and in different weights for the different type of garments. The silk cashmere blend is a proper suiting material in a 10 ounce weight ideal for an all year round suit. It has a smooth hand and a gloss finish. Embued with Subtle Elegance, this is a silk, cashmere, wool and viscose blend to make it wrinkle resistant. The raw silk is a more fancy fabric, dry clean only, 9 ounce fabric, all year round wear and a matte nubby fleck finish that brings out the ´appearance of rawness´ in the material. This is a silk and terelene blend material. This is a totally non wrinkle material for mens and womens suits and sports jackets or blazers. (Back)

4p ) What are fabrics in the CloseOuts Category? What are Exclusive Closeouts? Deluxe Closeouts? The fabrics in the CloseOuts are left over remnant fabrics from suitings and shirtings and are a mixed bunch.
These are suitings, Shirtings and Pants fabrics that after use from a very large bolt, now are only sufficient for just one garment as displayed.
This range includes fabrics that are cotton blends, wools, wool blends, silks and silk blends and is offered more as a pot luck choice rather than anything else..hence the deeply discounted prices.
We are unable to describe each of the fabrics since there are simply so many and only enough for the one single garment!
The fabrics available though are remenants from all our regular ranges from the top of the range to the most basic materials and in no manner any less a quality.
We are offering garments in these materials at these prices simply because we want to finish off whatever little material is left to make way for newer fabrics in our inventory.
However, there are also instances when only a single colour is left in a particular fabric. For the sake of inventory clearance or to finish off the short run fabric, we sometimes offer these in our CloseOuts at deep discounts.
For instance, our Deluxe CloseOuts or our Exclusive CloseOuts carry single colour discontinued fabrics moved over to this collection from our regular Exclusive or Deluxe Collections.
Please bear in mind that if selecting from our CloseOuts, given the very limited availability of some fabrics, Big and Tall sizes may have to provide us with alternate choices of fabrics and/or colours should upon processing the order, we find the selected fabric to be insufficient for the size ordered. In such cases, we will email you for a change of selection as necessary.
Should the alternate fabric selected in the above instance be an upgrade or be from a collection that is higher in price than the closeouts collection, the difference in price will apply. (Back)

4q ) What material and colour has been used in the Style image I like ? I want to order the same. May we confirm that all our pieces are individually hand made-to-measure and not adjustments to off the rack sizes or off the rack sizes themselves.
Each piece is individually cut in the style, fabric, colour and measurements specifications provided when placing the order.
Since we are custom tailors, the images displayed at our website are not the finished products that we produce but reference guide to styles that you may want to see included in your custom piece.
Thus, after selecting the style most to your liking, you would need to select the fabric from the list of materials we have displayed and then the colour and on subsequent special request sections you can indicate any deviations or added customizations to the selected style.
Thus, you get to select the fabric that you would like the chosen style in rather than selecting from whatever fabric, colour and style combination available when buying suits off the rack ready to wear.
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4r ) I would like to order a garment from one collection, in a fabric from another collection. How do I do so ? May we confirm that items in styles from one collection or category can be ordered in fabrics from another collection or category.
To do this, select the type of item you wish to order, a suit or a shirt for example, from the collection that you would like to have the fabric from.
Then, select any style from within the category of the desired fabric collection for the sake of order placement.
Next, use the subsequent special request section of the order placement process to indicate a change of style from the one selected to the style number prefered.
We will then use your instructions to custom make the garment in the fabric selected but in the style indicated. The selected style will be ignored per your instructions. (Back)

4s ) I am a woman, but I like mens style shirts or suits. How do I order this ? May we confirm that womens shirts or suits can be ordered in mens styles at no extra charge. You can either select the styles that are more masculine from the womens categories or you can select mens styles from the mens categories. If the styles are selected from the mens categories, please use the special request section of the order placement process to indicate that the styles although selected for men, the custom garment should be made in the mens style but for a woman´s wear. Measurements would need to be set up by logging into the MyAccounts section using your email address and then using the links provided within the MyAccounts area provided for this purpose. Please use the womens measurements forms for the size submission to ensure that the proportioning of the garments are done for a female physique even though the style is a mens style. (Back)

4t ) I would like to order a Custom made Denim Jeans. Can you do this? May we confirm that we can make denim jeans to measure in basic colours such as light blue, dark blue and black. Two kinds of denim are available. Light weight thin denim ideal for pleated pants and heavier sturdy denims ideal for typical 501 style classic jeans. All our denims are prewashed and preshrunk for maximum comfort and ideal fit.
To order this, please visit our catalogs to check out the available styles and colors. (Back)

4u ) I would like to order a Suit/Shirt in White/Cream/Blue/Yellow/Pink/Orange or in a colour not shown here . How do I do so ? What Fabric is best for such a garment? We are glad to confirm that it is possible to have a suit/shirt/Tuxedo or even a coat, custom made in white/Cream/Blue/Yellow/Pink/Orange or in any other colour currently not displayed at our website.
We recommend for example, fabrics such as 119, 128, 120, 116, 1011 and other silks and linens as ideal for a custom garment in unusual colours.
The fabric search function on the left menu can be used to type in the word " silk " or " linen " without the quote marks to do a quick search for all the materials with unusual colours for your custom garment. If the specific colour you are looking for, is not found at our site, please email us us with the colour requirement so that we can source it for your particular order from our suppliers.
If a white/offwhite/cream/ivory/other colour suit or shirt is required in any of the fabrics, and this colour/colors is not be displayed in the colour palette when choosing the fabric, rest assured that it can be easily sourced from our suppliers.
In the case of white/offwhite/cream/ivory colours for example, please proceed to the appropriate category or collection and select the item you would like to have made. Then select the style you like and on the subsequent page, please select the fabric you wish us to use. Then, for the sake of order placement, Select any colour from the palette if you don�t see a white/offwhite/cream/ivory or your prefered colour available and click on the �order� button to add to your shopping cart. The next page will bring up the special request sections where in the appropriate field, the colour you would prefer, such as a white/offwhite/cream/ivory can be indicated.
All the styles displayed in each of the collections can be made in white/offwhite/cream/ivory per your choice provided the selected fabric has it in stock in our inventory or with our suppliers. Should we find your preferred colour not available, Rest assured, we will be emailing you for advice or instructions.
We will then use your instructions to ignore the selected colour and use the required colour for your custom made garment. (Back)

4v ) I would like to buy Fabric only / Do you Sell by the Yard ?/ What is the cost per yard of Fabric ? We would be happy to supply you with fabrics only if this is your requirement although we prefer to offer completely custom made garments which is our profession as custom tailors and manufacturers of made to measure clothing for men and women. Please let us know the cloths you would be interested in so that we can forward a quote for your consideration. Kindly email us the complete yardage you would need so that Shipping and Handling costs can be correctly calculated and included. Once confirmed, please use the ´offsite purchases´ link at our website to submit payment as necessary. To order finished custom made clothing, kindly visit the various collections at our website and place your order for custom pieces directly online. (Back)

4w ) I am looking for a very particular fabric/Can you source a fabric I am looking for? We can source a fabric you may be looking for. Send us an image of the material, or a link to an online image, or send us a swatch of the fabric or detailed description of the fabric and we will try our best to source the material you wish to order your custom clothing in.
More information and instructions on sending fabric, fabric quantity needed etc can be found at this link.
To place CMT orders, please use this form (Back)

4x ) Where and How do I view the various fabrics? You can view fabrics by doing fabric search using the link on the left menu above and typing in the fabric names or characteristics or fabric numbers as explained on the search page. As well, there is no one place that the fabrics can be viewed at our website since the fabrics depend not only on the collection you select but also the item and style you select. Hence, When visiting our deluxe collections for example, please select the category, such as double breasted suits, then please select the style you would like, and when clicking on the image of the style, you would be taken to the page that lists the fabrics available in that category. Upon clicking on the name of the fabric, you would be able to view a palette of colours that that particular fabric is available in and selecting from one of these will show the actual swatch on the box above the selected style. Clicking on the ´ok´ button will add the item in that material and colour to your shopping cart. (Back)

4y ) Does MySuitShop Make to Measure with my cloth? How and Where can I send you cloth for my Custom garments? We are glad to confirm though that we can custom make clothing, including suits, shirts and pants, the fabric for which you would like to send to us for the purpose.
The cost of CMT (cut, make, trim) of suits is USD 150 inclusive of Shipping and Handling and of shirts is USD 30 inclusive of shipping and handling of the finished products back to you by international couriers for safe and fast door to door delivery. The cost of CMT for pants is USD 45 also inclusive of shipping and handling of the finished items back to you..
To send the fabric to us, kindly follow the instructions outlined below...
a) Please pack the materials in as small a package as possible and include your name, address, telephone number and Customer ID within the package. The customer ID is the number you find in the subject field of any email received from us.
b) Send it by registered/certified airmail. Please do not use a courier for this as their inbound services into Thailand leave a lot to be desired.
Please put a low value on the package, under USD 15 for example.
c) Please declare the item as old cloth of no commercial value for sampling purposes only.
d) Please include a note in the package that outlines the order in as detail as possible.
Remember to include any special requests for any of the items such as handstitched lapels and pockets on jackets, working sleeve buttons on jackets, contrast linings on jackets and vests, monogrammes on jackets, vests or shirts and any other very particular specifications you would like to see in any of the custom pieces being ordered. These options are at a small premium and will be added to your order totals once we know what optionals are required.
e) our mailing address is Mailing address....
Ravis Custom Tailors
1091/67 New Petchburi Road, Soi 33
Makkasan,
Phya Thai
Bangkok 10400
Thailand
Tel: (66) 2 650 0956 or (66) 81 987 8717 or (66) 2 651 7383 or (66) 2 651 6663
f) please contact us and let us know when the fabric has been sent to us so that we can keep an eye out for it.
g) You would need to have the measurements submitted by setting up measurements profiles by logging into the MyAccounts feature at our website.
Alternatively, you may want to include well fitting samples garments in the package for replication of measurements and/or styles from your sample garments.
h) Next, kindly proceed to our CMT and other Orders payment page to submit payment thereof so that we can proceed.
More information and instructions on sending fabric, fabric quantity needed etc can be found at this link.
To place CMT orders, please use this form (Back)

4z ) Does MySuitShop customize to any style? If you would like us to custom make garments to styles not displayed or available at our website, we can do this if the image file or a link to an online image is emailed to us along with the order or before placing the order for our confirmation and further instructions. Our email address is mysuitmaker@mysuitshop.com Please contact us for more information. Should you like to send us an image file, Kindly do so using JPEG formats and please keep the file as small as possible. (Back)

4aa ) Can you make a custom piece of clothing from an image I send to you? We are glad to inform you that we can custom make to measure a piece of clothing as per the specific style you would like to email us an image of. Please email the image in JPEG format that ends with the extension .jpg and please ensure that the size of the image is not more than 50 kilobytes. Alternatively, you might like to email us a link to an online image as well. This can be sent to mysuitmaker@mysuitshop.com along with your customer ID and/or order ID. (Back)

4ab ) Can I order swatches? May we confirm that it is possible to get swatches as per your requirements.
Please make use of our online swatch form to select upto 20 different fabric and colour choices that interest you most so that swatches of these can be mailed over.
You can also order beautiful Style Catalogue of our most popular styles for men and 95 swatches personally hand selected by our Master Tailors - in solids and patterns, from light to mid weights, year round fabrics