Worn first by rebellious black and hispanic teenagers on both coasts in the late 20s/30s as a statement against the majority, the zoot was soon picked up by musicians and dancers in the early 1940s and even found its way into mainstream fashion.
The zoot jacket is oversized, wide-shouldered, and hangs almost to the knees. Often, it is double-breasted with wide, low lapels. Zoot pants are low-crotched and high-waisted, often coming halfway up the torso. They are deeply pleated at the waist (generally two or three mammoth pleats on each side) and generously cut at the knee. Zoot pants taper sharply at the ankle to end in a deep cuff that rests on the shoes. The width at the ankle is generally only be as wide as needed to get over the heel (though some men had zippers sewn into their cuffs to get a tighter fit) and the cuff was 1-2" deep.
The fabric for zoot suits was like the suits themselves - dramatic and overstated. The fabric was either brightly colored or boldly patterned with wide pinstripes or glen check. With fabric, the bolder the better - the goal was to distinguish oneself from the mainstream.
Oxford Baggies originated on the campus of Oxford University, England, during the summer of 1920. The full cut of these pants and cuff with a circumference of 22 inches allowed students to easily slip them on over their beloved knickers, which had been banned by the University. Unlike the ZOOT SUITS, Oxford Baggies were more socially accepted and worn by the masses.
Jazz clothing surfaced in 1919 as a new music called Jazz was first being performed. This JAZZ SUIT, identified by it's extremely trim, tight/pinched look, was worn by those in the theatrical profession. As seen in World War One uniforms the jacket has a unique waist seam.
Sacque Suits were worn by the common man from the 1850's - 1920's. They were appropriate for all but the dressiest occasions. Full cut Jacket with 4 button high gorge and trousers are straight cut and without cuffs.
Sacque's modern styling comes by way of its short, slim-fitting jacket and its low-rise, straight-leg pant. Together they create a sleek, contemporary look.
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