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What are the materials and Items used in suit making?


Body CanvassThere are basically 2 types of canvass used, each type has a like medium & hard grade. Depending on the original consultation & the cloth, this would depend on what canvass would be used & what grade. The basic 2 grades used are woolen canvass & lining canvass
Hair Cloth
There are several different types of hair cloth used of numerous grades. We personally use about 10 different grades depending on the construction of the coat & the weight of the cloth, shall we say for simplicity number 1 grade is very lightweight number 2 is slightly heavier & number 10 is obviously the heaviest. Again, taking the cloth & the customers original consultation into account we would choose the most appropriate hair cloth.
Domette
This is a fine cloth used to cover the hair cloth over the canvass stopping the hair cloth coming through the canvass & cloth. Some of the older tailors still do not use Domette but prefer using felt (please advise these tailors that cloth has changed in the last decade. Customer don’t just want to look good but also feel good in what they are wearing).
Body Lining
There are dozens of types of body lining to choose from, again depending on the original consultation you may choose to have a pure silk lining or one of those below -

  • Acetate Poult - Black, White, Ivory and Greige
  • Acetate Microfibre Lining
  • Acetate/Bemberg Lining
  • Acetate/Viscose Satin Lining
  • Bemberg 100% Ponginette Lining
  • Bemberg Taffeta Shot Lining
  • Bemberg Twill Lining
  • Silk/Viscose Linings
  • Viscose/Acetate Shot Twill Lining
  • Viscose Rayon Heavy Twill - Military Cols.
  • Viscose S/L Regency Stripes
  • Viscose Satin Lining - Tailoring shades
  • Viscose Twill Lining Ermazine Lining – Viscose
  • Coloured Linings
    Linen
    There are several types of linen, again this would depend on the cloth. The linen is commonly used on the backing of the pockets for strength & in the cuffs where the button holes & the buttons are sewn. It can also be used at the bottom of the jacket, on the back neck & on the back syes.
    Pocketing
    There are several different types & grades & also colours. We prefer to generally use a medium weight pocketing with matching colour to the garment. More information on request as I have a personal fettish on pocketing.
    Collar Melton
    This can be found under your collar, it is the felt like cloth which is one of 2 pieces to complete the under collar (Collar Canvass being the second part). This should always be cut on the bias & generally be of similar colour to the cloth. This is not to say you could not use a red colour melton on a blue or black jacket & create a feature of it.
    Collar Canvass
    There are basically 3 types of collar canvass, type 1 is a linen canvass cut on the bias generally used by Anderson & Sheppard (Savile Row). This creates a very soft collar, unfortunately it can also look a little messy in my opinion if done wrong. Type 2 is a medium grade canvass which is much stiffer & type 3 is a slightly harder canvass from type 2.When trying a garment on for the first time, generally it will look brownish in colour on your fitting, this is the collar canvass.
    Stay Tape (Linen)
    Stay tape is used on the front edges of the coat, generally it would be made from linen. It is to help the front edges not to stretch or twist & should always be sewn on by hand. You will probably never see this as the facings would be sewn on for your next fitting.
    Sleeve Head Wadding
    This is a pre-made wadding specifically used to go around the sleeve head when finished. It is sleeve head wadding that gives the roundness to a sleeve around your shoulders. In 22 years of tailoring, only 1 company does not use this method – Anderson & Sheppard who uses a small piece of domette cut on the bias with a small strip of wadding inside & folded thus giving the soft round shoulders & sleeve head which have made Anderson & Sheppard famous.
    Shoulder Pads
    As a company we have a choice of over 5000 shoulder pads, we have chosen to use 3 pads that are made exclusively for us & re modeled by each of our tailor to our individual requirements. Again, Anderson & Sheppard do not use (well they didn’t use, not saying they don’t now use….. but not saying they don’t use shoulder pads) to simply say they use wadding covered by a piece of lining which they call a ‘shoulder pad’ giving that soft shoulder look.
    Button Twist
    Button twist is used to make button holes, there a thousands of colours, but generally most tailors will only use 1 or 2 makes for the simple reason of quality of twist.
    Button Gimp
    This is used when making button holes. The gimp is placed along the button hole & the button twist is sewn around the gimp giving the button hole a slightly stiffer finish. There are several different grades of gimp.
    Sewing Silk
    Sewing silk is used on hand sewing, your linings will be sewn with sewing silk, the under collar where the melton attaches itself to the cloth is also sewn with sewing silk, but can also be used to sew shoulders & sleeves by hand.



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    Other commonly asked questions about Common Terms, Names, Processes in Custom Tailoring

    1. What is SINGLE-NEEDLE STITCHING? Can you do Single Needle Stitching on shirts?
    2. What is a PLACKET?
    3. What is ply?
    4. What is yarn size?
    5. What is thread count?
    6. What is Glen Plaid?

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