12) What are the materials and Items used in suit making?
13) What is SEERSUCKER?
14) What is the difference between a Suit Jacket, a Blazer and a Sports Jacket ?
15) How much fabric is required for a Suit I would like made?
16) What is the price of Suits, Shirts, Pants, Coats custom made to measure?
17) Can I order swatches?
18) Are your Jackets Hand Basted or Fused? Can you do Hand Basted Canvas Fronts? Are shirt collars fused? What about the Seams?
19) Do you do removable collar stays on shirts?
20) What is wool? What are the different kinds of wool and their advantages?
We subscribe to the refunds and cancellation policies endorsed by the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals of America. The policy is “No Refunds or Returns: There are no refunds or exchanges on custom garments fabrics or other materials once they are purchased on your behalf. Once garments leave our facility, all business is completed. Unlike ready-to-wear, custom garments result from a service and are therefore not returnable and not refundable.
For more specific answers to your questions about our return policy, please feel free to send us an email. [Top]
Body CanvassThere are basically 2 types of canvass used, each type has a like medium & hard grade. Depending on the original consultation & the cloth, this would depend on what canvass would be used & what grade. The basic 2 grades used are woolen canvass & lining canvass
There are several different types of hair cloth used of numerous grades. We personally use about 10 different grades depending on the construction of the coat & the weight of the cloth, shall we say for simplicity number 1 grade is very lightweight number 2 is slightly heavier & number 10 is obviously the heaviest. Again, taking the cloth & the customers original consultation into account we would choose the most appropriate hair cloth.
This is a fine cloth used to cover the hair cloth over the canvass stopping the hair cloth coming through the canvass & cloth. Some of the older tailors still do not use Domette but prefer using felt (please advise these tailors that cloth has changed in the last decade. Customer don’t just want to look good but also feel good in what they are wearing).
There are dozens of types of body lining to choose from, again depending on the original consultation you may choose to have a pure silk lining or one of those below -
There are several types of linen, again this would depend on the cloth. The linen is commonly used on the backing of the pockets for strength & in the cuffs where the button holes & the buttons are sewn. It can also be used at the bottom of the jacket, on the back neck & on the back syes.
There are several different types & grades & also colours. We prefer to generally use a medium weight pocketing with matching colour to the garment. More information on request as I have a personal fettish on pocketing.
This can be found under your collar, it is the felt like cloth which is one of 2 pieces to complete the under collar (Collar Canvass being the second part). This should always be cut on the bias & generally be of similar colour to the cloth. This is not to say you could not use a red colour melton on a blue or black jacket & create a feature of it.
There are basically 3 types of collar canvass, type 1 is a linen canvass cut on the bias generally used by Anderson & Sheppard (Savile Row). This creates a very soft collar, unfortunately it can also look a little messy in my opinion if done wrong. Type 2 is a medium grade canvass which is much stiffer & type 3 is a slightly harder canvass from type 2.When trying a garment on for the first time, generally it will look brownish in colour on your fitting, this is the collar canvass.
Stay Tape (Linen)
Stay tape is used on the front edges of the coat, generally it would be made from linen. It is to help the front edges not to stretch or twist & should always be sewn on by hand. You will probably never see this as the facings would be sewn on for your next fitting.
Sleeve Head Wadding
This is a pre-made wadding specifically used to go around the sleeve head when finished. It is sleeve head wadding that gives the roundness to a sleeve around your shoulders. In 22 years of tailoring, only 1 company does not use this method – Anderson & Sheppard who uses a small piece of domette cut on the bias with a small strip of wadding inside & folded thus giving the soft round shoulders & sleeve head which have made Anderson & Sheppard famous.
As a company we have a choice of over 5000 shoulder pads, we have chosen to use 3 pads that are made exclusively for us & re modeled by each of our tailor to our individual requirements. Again, Anderson & Sheppard do not use (well they didn’t use, not saying they don’t now use….. but not saying they don’t use shoulder pads) to simply say they use wadding covered by a piece of lining which they call a ‘shoulder pad’ giving that soft shoulder look.
Button twist is used to make button holes, there a thousands of colours, but generally most tailors will only use 1 or 2 makes for the simple reason of quality of twist.
This is used when making button holes. The gimp is placed along the button hole & the button twist is sewn around the gimp giving the button hole a slightly stiffer finish. There are several different grades of gimp.
Sewing silk is used on hand sewing, your linings will be sewn with sewing silk, the under collar where the melton attaches itself to the cloth is also sewn with sewing silk, but can also be used to sew shoulders & sleeves by hand. [Top]
Since we do not stock seersucker in our inventory, please email us if this cloth is a requirement and we would be happy to source it from our suppliers. Generally, colours such as light blue on white, navy on white, black on white and grey and white are fairly easily available. [Top]
Another difference is that while suit jackets are matched with exactly the same colour as the pants, sports jackets can be any colour and usually with a pattern such as hounds tooth or herringbone or checks and if solids, they are usually very light or very dark colours..never ´in between´ colours. Sports jackets should never be in stripes or prince of Wales checks as these are suitings.
Blazers are always solids and only in dark blue, navy, black, burgundy, dark green, red and white or ivory. Blazers must always have gold or silver buttons while sports jackets should have matching buttons as should suit jackets.
The cut of the three are pretty much similar though sports jackets can never be double breasted.
Blazers can be single or double breasteds and suits too can be single or double breasteds.
Vents are the openings on the back of the jackets. Some call it slits. Classic traditional styles usually have one vent..center vent.. at the back of the jacket.
Very traditional British or 50s and 60s style of jackets have two vents..side vents .. at the back of the jacket and more modern ´Italian cut´ slim styles have no vents at the back of the jacket in which case the hips tend to be a bit on the snug side as well. [Top]
57-60-inch width of fabric... 5 yards
Add .5 yards if fabric has large stripes and 1 yard if fabric has large checks or plaid patterns.
Add .5 yard if size above 50 regular up to 54 regular and 1.5 yards if above 54 regular to 58 regular. Add 2 yards if size above 60 regular to 64 regular.
For long sizes, add .5 yards to the quantity required for regular sizes. Hence 50 long will require 5.5 yards while 50 regular requires 5 yards in solid colour 60 inch wide fabric.
Add .5 yards if size long and 1 yard if size extra long.
For extra pants add 2 yards in solid, 2.25 yards in large stripe and 2.5 yards in large checks in 57-60 inch wide fabric for a 50 regular size.
Above 58 regular, add a further .5 yards to the quantity required for regular sizes and above 64 regular, add 1 yard to quantity required for regular sizes.
For a vest single or double breasted, for 50 regular and under in size, add 1 yard in solids, 1.25 yards in stripes and 1.5 yards in checks. If the vest has lapels, add an extra .5 yards.
For sizes for vests above 50 and under 58, add an extra .75 yards and for sizes from 58 and above, add an additional 1 yard.
45-inch width of fabric ... 6.5 yards
Add 1.5 yards if fabric has large stripes and 2.5 yard if fabric has large checks or plaid patterns.
Add 1.5 yard if size above 50 regular up to 54 regular and 2.5 yards if above 54 regular to 58 regular.
Add 3 yards if size above 60 regular to 64 regular.
For long sizes, add 1.5 yards to the quantity required for regular sizes. Hence 50 long will require 7.5 yards while 50 regular requires 6 yards in solid colour 60 inch wide fabric.
Add 1.5 yards if size long and 2 yard if size extra long.
For extra pants add 3 yards in solid, 3.5 yards in large stripe and 4 yards in large checks in 45 inch wide fabric for a 50 regular size. Above 58 regular, add a further .5 yards to the quantity required for regular sizes and above 64 regular, add 1 yard to quantity required for regular sizes.
For a vest single or double breasted, for 50 regular and under in size, add 2 yard in solids, 2.25 yards in stripes and 2.5 yards in checks. If the vest has lapels, add an extra 1 yards.
For sizes for vests above 50 and under 58, add an extra 1.25 yards and for sizes from 58 and above, add an additional 1.5 yards.
For more details, Please contact us us for confirmation of fabric quantity required. It would help if we have your complete sizes and the exact styles you require for the garments, or check out the full chart of fabric quantity requirements, click on the instructions link on this page. [Top]
To obtain a price for any garment, please visit one of our collections or catalogues as displayed in the main menu and select the custom piece of clothing you wish to have made to measure. The prices in accordance are displayed alongside each type of garment. The workmanship or construction of the custom clothing remains the same through out all the collections. You can also visit our Compare Prices page to review a full price list as compared to comparable garments elsewhere in the world and on the internet. You can also find great discounts in our Sales categories and in our Special Offers page. [Top]
Please make use of our online swatch form to select upto 20 different fabric and colour choices that interest you most so that swatches of these can be mailed over.
You can also order beautiful Style Catalogue of our most popular styles for men and 95 swatches personally hand selected by our Master Tailors - in solids and patterns, from light to mid weights, year round fabrics from our mid to upper range collections.
You would be able to get a $10 discount when placing your next order with us using the swatches shipped to you.
Please use this form to submit your swatch or catalogue requisition request.
Please note that since fabrics from our Heritage Gold Collection and some others are not stocked in our inventory but are sourced from our suppliers in Europe as and when an order in these materials is received, we would regretfully be unable to honour swatch requests for materials in this collection. [Top]
Normally, the panel interlinings in our suits and coats are a combination of fusion and canvas.
The top breast panels are fused and also have hand basted canvas interlinings for added support and the lower half of the jacket front is fusion for increased flow and drape.
We can however prepare full canvas or full fusion interlinings on jackets and coats if this is desired. There is however a small premium for this feature and this additional option should be selected in the accessories page of the order placement process.
Only the finest threads are used for handbasting so that the outer shell of the jackets or coats seem to �float� on the body when worn.
Kindly also include this requirement in the notes in the special request section of the order placement process when submitting your order.
All our shirt collars are double fused for added durability and stiffness resulting in shirts that are top of the range in quality of construction.
Here are some of the TRUE MARKS OF Our BESPOKE SHIRTS...
All of our shirts are sewn with a minimum of 12 to 18 stitches per inch, depending on the fabric being used for the shirt, with full single needle construction resulting in strong, flat seams that do not separate.
Premium interlinings are fused into the collar and cuffs giving a smooth, even appearance.
Our Shirt collars are hand-cut and hand-turned.
Built in stay pockets prevent the removable stay from showing through the fabric.
Sleeve to cuff pleating gives balance to sleeve.
Pearl coated mylar buttons are cross stitched for extra strength.
Hand finishing and pressing insure individual attention to each shirt.
It is our intention that our products should be used for as long a period of time as possible. Hence unlike off the rack clothing which is made close to the edge in every seam, our custom clothing is made with large margins. Pants waist can be increased by 3 inches and jackets can be increased by 3 to 4 inches easily!
We maintain a high standard of QUALITY AND WORKMANSHIP with dedication to customer service. Click Here to find out more about our standards of custom garment construction. [Top]
Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool´s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS - although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.
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