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UNDERSTITCHING   - Under stitching is not visible from the right side of
the garment. It is used to force facings slightly to the inside, in order to hide
        the seam line.
   1. Under stitching holds the facing (neckline, collar, cuff, pocket) in
   2. The under stitching is not visible on the face of the garment.
   3. The thread blends with the fabric.
   4. Stitching is done from the right side of the facing, through the facing
        and all seam allowances, after seam allowances have been trimmed,
        graded, clipped, or notched.
   5. The under stitching is an even distance from the seam edge,
        approximately 1 / 8".
Set-in Sleeves   - The sleeve is set into an oval armscye with a seam that
passes over the high point of the shoulder and encircles the entire arm. The
set-in sleeve is designed with ease, to enable the sleeve to fit comfortably
and attractively over the rounded portion of the upper arm. The amount of
ease needed for these purposes depends on the width and the height of the
sleeve cap.
   1. The sleeve is usually matched to the bodice armscye at the following
        points, unless altered for custom fit:
         a. the high point of the sleeve to the shoulder line of the bodice
         b. the underarm seam of the sleeve to the underarm of the bodice
         c. the right sleeve is designed to fit into the right and the left
            sleeve into the left armscye for correct fit and hang of the
   2.  A11 ease, generally on the sleeve cap, is distributed with no puckers,
        pleats, or dimples.
   3. Bodice shoulder seams are sewn, finished, and pressed before the
        sleeve is set in, to avoid conspicuous pulls or puckers at the shoulder
   4. Plaids, stripes, or directional patterns are matched within a two-piece
        sleeve and where the sleeve joins the garment at the notches. Further
        matching is dependent on the amount of ease.
   5. Darts, pleats, or gathers used to produce a full sleeve cap are neatly
        made, accurately positioned, and consistent with the garment's style
        and the fabric.


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