|UNDERSTITCHING - Under stitching is not visible from the right side of |
the garment. It is used to force facings slightly to the inside, in order to hide
the seam line.
| 1. Under stitching holds the facing (neckline, collar, cuff, pocket) in |
|2. The under stitching is not visible on the face of the garment.|
|3. The thread blends with the fabric.|
| 4. Stitching is done from the right side of the facing, through the facing |
and all seam allowances, after seam allowances have been trimmed,
graded, clipped, or notched.
| 5. The under stitching is an even distance from the seam edge, |
approximately 1 / 8".
|Set-in Sleeves - The sleeve is set into an oval armscye with a seam that |
passes over the high point of the shoulder and encircles the entire arm. The
set-in sleeve is designed with ease, to enable the sleeve to fit comfortably
and attractively over the rounded portion of the upper arm. The amount of
ease needed for these purposes depends on the width and the height of the
| 1. The sleeve is usually matched to the bodice armscye at the following |
points, unless altered for custom fit:
|a. the high point of the sleeve to the shoulder line of the bodice|
|b. the underarm seam of the sleeve to the underarm of the bodice|
| c. the right sleeve is designed to fit into the right and the left |
sleeve into the left armscye for correct fit and hang of the
| 2. A11 ease, generally on the sleeve cap, is distributed with no puckers, |
pleats, or dimples.
| 3. Bodice shoulder seams are sewn, finished, and pressed before the |
sleeve is set in, to avoid conspicuous pulls or puckers at the shoulder
| 4. Plaids, stripes, or directional patterns are matched within a two-piece |
sleeve and where the sleeve joins the garment at the notches. Further
matching is dependent on the amount of ease.
| 5. Darts, pleats, or gathers used to produce a full sleeve cap are neatly |
made, accurately positioned, and consistent with the garment's style
and the fabric.
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