|more pleasing appearance. Examples of seam finishes are pinked, overcast, |
Hong Kong, turned and stitched, and serged.
| 1. The seam finish is appropriate to the garment fabric, the garment |
design, the intended use of the garment, its quality, and garment care.
| 2. The finish is applied securely so that it remains in place during normal |
wear and care.
| 3. The finish does not add bulk to the seam. |
| 4. The selected finish prevents the fabric from raveling, rolling, or |
stretching and contributes to the overall neatness of the garment.
| 5. The finishes' binding or thread color is appropriate to the fashion |
fabric, unless used for decorative purposes.
|DARTS - A dart adds three-dimensional shape to a single section of cut |
fabric. Darts are used most frequently at locations of major body contours--
bust, shoulders, waist/hips, elbows, for example--and in apparel that is fitted
to the body.
| 1. Stitch length is appropriate to the fabric and to the expected stress at |
the stitched location.
| 2. The thread matches the apparel fabric. |
| 3. No creases or pressing impressions are present on the face side of the |
| 4. No dimples or bubbles can be seen at the dart point. |
| 5. Matching darts appear identical in size and angle. |
| 6. The stitching line is smooth without puckers or folds. |
| 7. Both ends of the dart are sufficiently secured. |
| 8. Darts on heavy or bulky fabrics are slashed, trimmed or balanced, if |
needed, and pressed open.
|DART EQUIVALENTS - Gathers, pleats and tucks may be used as dart |
equivalents or as decorative details. They are created during the actual
construction of the garment, as opposed to being applied to a completed
garment or garment section.
| 1. Gathers are uniform and evenly distributed and stitched so as not to |
form pleats. Gathers are pressed flat only in the seam allowance. All
visible basting threads are removed.
| 2. Tucks and pleats are composed of straight, even folds of fabric, |
uniform in width unless the design requires variation.
| 4 |
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